Nirmal Purja, Record-Holding Mountaineer, Killed in Broad Peak Avalanche
Nirmal Purja, the 43-year-old British-Nepali mountaineer known for summiting all 14 eight-thousanders in 189 days, died Thursday in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan that killed 10 climbers total. Per BBC News reporting, Purja had added the climb to his itinerary at the last moment.
Nirmal Purja, a 43-year-old British-Nepali mountaineer who became a global figure after summiting all 14 eight-thousanders in 189 days, was killed Thursday in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan's Karakoram range. According to BBC News, nine other climbers also died in the incident, making it one of the deadliest single events on the mountain in recent years.
Broad Peak, the world's 12th-highest summit at 8,047 meters (26,400 feet), is regarded as one of the more challenging mountains for climbers. Dozens have lost their lives on the peak since its first successful ascent in 1957 by an Austrian expedition. In 2013, at least six people died there, marking one of its deadliest years on record.
Purja's record-breaking achievement in 2019 made him one of mountaineering's most celebrated figures. He later became more widely known following a Netflix documentary titled '14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible,' released two years after his feat. Born in Nepal, he served 16 years in the British military, with 10 of those years in special forces, and was the first Gurkha to summit Everest while serving in the British army. In 2018, he was awarded an MBE by the late Queen for his extreme high-altitude mountaineering achievement.
In his final post on X, published Monday according to BBC reporting, Purja revealed that he had not originally intended to climb Broad Peak. His initial plan was to summit only Gasherbrum II. If he had succeeded on Broad Peak, he would have been one mountain away from becoming the first person ever to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice without supplemental oxygen. His last post read, "Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted."
Per BBC News, three climbers from Purja's expedition had their bodies recovered: American Mallory Geis, Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy from Oman, and Pur Bahadur Gurung from Nepal. Nepal's Prime Minister Balendra Shah stated that the avalanche killed six Nepalese and four other foreign climbers, including Purja. Elite Expeditions, the company leading the climb, confirmed Purja's death with "profound sadness and immense heartbreak." Purja's brother Kamal posted a tribute saying, "We will miss you every single day."
UK Defence Secretary Wes Streeting said: "Incredibly sad to learn of the passing of Nirmal (Nims) Purja and those he was climbing with. He was an inspirational man who served in our Armed Forces for many years, and whose incredible mountaineering adventures are known the world over." Naila Kiani, a spokesperson for the Alpine Club of Pakistan, described Purja as a "very experienced climber and fearless," noting he had led many expeditions in the region. Purja lived in Hampshire in southern England with his wife and a three-year-old daughter.
Nirmal Purja, 43, died in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan that killed 10 climbers; he held the record for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in 189 days.
The specific circumstances that triggered the avalanche remain undocumented in available reporting. Watch for updates from expedition investigations or mountaineering authorities on whether the weather, climbing conditions, or other factors in the immediate hours before the collapse become public.
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- The New York Times lean-left / high
- BBC News center / high
Also reported by The New Indian Express, India Tribune, myRepublica, Ekantipur. Independent coverage of the same development, found by search; not this story's sources.
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